Archive for Winter Gardening – Page 4

Hummingbirds in Your Winter Garden

During our recent cold spell I was reminded that our overwintering hummingbirds need support to survive.  It’s so much fun to see them feeding on the bright red flowers of Camellia Sasanqua ‘Yultide’.  I got an e-mail and photo from my client Lois showing me the numerous flowers and telling me how happy her hummingbirds were.

Hummingbird feeder in winter

Hummingbird feeder in winter

My client, Diane Nowicki, has had a hummingbird nest in her front yard, conveniently located a mere foot away from large windows.  The nest is in her native Madrone tree, a tree her first landscape designer campaigned for over 20 years ago.  I was thrilled to see this Madrone doing so well in an east exposure. Pacific Northwest Madrone, Arbutus Menziesii is one of my favorite trees.

Arbutus menziesii
Photo credit Watershed Nursery

It was very interesting to watch the daily doings of the mama hummer and her babies.  Diane and her husband Ed also got to watch the mama hummer spread her wings and clamp them down over the nest during a wind storm.  The nest was so small; it was bouncing up and down in the wind. The young hummers would have been bounced right out of the nest.

If you feed hummingbirds with sugar water, you have an obligation to continue in freezing weather as the birds become dependent on you.  They do eat insects under the bark and wherever they can find them but to keep the sugar water viable, consider using Christmas lights to warm the liquid.  Also, the chemical hand warmers can be tied to the tube and it is said this will keep the liquid from freezing for up to 7 hours.  This photo shows a home owner supplied pie tin and everything else was purchased at Backyard Bird Shop.

Planning for a Cheery Winter Landscape

Entry focal point at Hilton Residence Inn in Raleigh Hills, OregonLet’s start with art.  An art object does not need pruning, watering or fertilizing.  Art, particularly large art, is a way to get a powerful all season effect in the landscape.  Place it so you see it from the most used room of the house.  Add a little night lighting and really get your money’s worth.

Shapely trees and large shrubs with attractive branch structure will make 75% of your most dramatic winter picture.  Buy trees or shrubs already pruned and shaped beautifully. There are specialty growers who do this as part of their marketing niche, or hire a landscape gardener or an arborist to turn your trees and shrubs into winter beauties. Out here in the NW it’s Nancy Buley with Treephoria and while her plants are grown way out in east county she comes in to some of the farmers markets to make it easier for you to connect with her.

Red Camellia in L. Waldron Garden

Red Camellia in L. Waldron Garden

Here’s a series of shapely shrubs/small trees with cheerful bright winter flowers.  My favorite of the chinese camellias is still Camellia Sasanqua ‘Yuletide’ but the growers have created a whole line of plants similar to Yuletide but in different flowering colors and different flower timing.  Here are a couple of new ones I’m excited about.  ‘Springs Promise’ a chinese camellia from Monrovia has an unusual orange red flower, a color hard to find in winter.  The tree can be trained into a vase shape, an espalier or a thick shrub.  We will see if the hummingbirds like it as much as they do the true red of the Yuletide variety. ‘Pink a Boo’ also has the smaller dark green glossy leaves (like Yuletide) but is that perfect frosty intense but pale pink.  Camellia Sasanqua ‘Marge Miller’ is the only plant with a weeping shape.  I’ve only used it once and am eager to get photos this January when my client Karen’s plant starts to flower.

calluna-vulgaris-robert-chapman360 port nursery

Calluna Vulgaris ‘Robert Chapman’ lights up in winter cold.

To have a cheery winter landscape we need plant color low on the ground with a dark mulch or hemlock bark to dress the raw earth.  Too much mulch or raw muddy earth looks unfinished especially for a front yard.  In the back yard your dog will happily churn up that mud and bring it in so I like to see it covered.  Many people here in the Northwest like to have the soil covered with plants to conserve water, lessen the chore of weeding and for style.  Others find it too busy and want to see the space around the plants as part of the design.  No one wants mud so we all agree on that.  Plant selection:  Use plants that turn on the color in winter cold.  The foliage of heathers light up in reds, russets, ambers, and golds.

Calluna heather at Cooper garden

Calluna Vulgaris ‘Winter Chocolate’

Hot Winter Twigs

Cornus Sanguineum ‘Midwinter Fire’

For a January pick me up, we cannot beat a red twig dogwood or scarlet willow, although planning for space is an issue with these plants. The twig dogwood shrubs and small trees  light up in hot reds, burgundy and yellow.

Notice what is going on outside.  If you have become a person who never ventures out in the winter……give yourself a gentle little shake, put on some warm clothes and get out there and see what is going on.  Slow down enough to notice light on the tree stems, chilled dew on a leaf, and the leaf buds swelling on your Japanese maple in preparation for spring.  This is good for our spirits and our minds.

Winters come early, protect your plants

Tips for Winter Care of Drought Tolerant & Other Plants

 

Iron gate design with snow S.E. Portland OregonI recently was a guest on a radio talk show, Real Estate Today, with Gloria Hahn of the Hahn Group.  Once again it was fun, I was only a little nervous and it went well.

We talked about protecting plants from winter weather damage.  There are many kinds of damage that occur due to winter weather.  Here are a few tips to protect your plants.

Daphne care for the winter season.

Don’t let your Daphne “catch” downspout disease.

Prevent Root Rot

Be vigilant about clogged downspouts….many a Daphne has died in May because of the root rot that happened from sheets of water coming over the gutters in winter.  Don’t let your downspouts and gutters clog up. I never plant a Daphne or a shrub that is especially prone to root rot near the downspout. No one means to let them clog up but if you do not have a basement you might think you can let it wait.

Keep Bark Dust off the Centers of Plants

Applying mulch or bark dust to your planting beds in early winter is a great idea.  Mulch benefits your soil and plants and helps protects roots from cold temperatures. Bark dust helps prevent weeds.  If you have it blown in, be aware you must go out and remove the material off the crown of your plants.  I can count the number of times bark dust was applied correctly by a blow in company on one hand. They don’t pay attention to plants and especially perennials.  When the plants crown is buried it will be kept wet all winter and can die from crown rot.

It’s up to you to save your plants.  You must remove the excess product off the plants crown.  I often use a whisk broom but fingers work nicely .  I don’t apply mulch or bark dust over my fallen leaves.  I rake first and then apply 2 inches of product on my planting beds.

Echinacea 'White Swan' has winter care when dormant.

Butterflies hatch from leaves left on site.

Speaking of leaves; these days I find places in my property to pile a lot of my leaves so butterflies and other beneficial insects eggs (on the leaves) can hatch in the spring and benefit my landscape and local environment.

Don’t Prune Plants Unless They Are Dormant

Late fall or winter is not a safe time to prune most evergreen shrubs and other plants that don’t go dormant in the winter.  This can bring a plant out of dormancy or prevent it from going dormant.  This can make it vulnerable to damage or death.  When cold temps hit, if you are a plant,  it’s a good thing to be dormant and miss it all.  There are some plants that are extremely cold tolerant but many are not. Plants can’t go to Arizona for the winter.

Professionals like to prune deciduous trees and shrubs like Japanese maples (not evergreen) in December to mid January here in the Pacific Northwest.  This plant is dormant at this time, has not started to grow buds and will not “wake up” in response to pruning.  Professionals know what plants are exceptions but most homeowners do not.

Carol on a garden coach appointment pruning for winter care.

Carol Lindsay pruning non evergreen tree in winter.

Do spread a 2” layer of mulch or compost around your plants once your winter landscape is cleaned up.  You don’t want to put the compost over a bunch of decaying leaves. Mulch helps protect plant roots from extreme cold.  If you have trees whose leaves don’t drop until December, you need to wait ’til these leaves have dropped.

Drought Tolerant Plants Are Susceptible to Root Rot

Most of my clients these days ask for a low water landscape design.  I mention this with regard to winter plant protection because these plants must have good drainage in the winter.  The crown or stems at the soil level are very prone to rot.  I like to mulch the crowns with minus ten crushed rock.  I place the tiny crushed rock around the plant, not over the top of the plant.  This helps roll winter water away from the plant’s crown.  It is critical to keep bark dust or mulch away from the crowns of these perennials and shrubs. Plants like Manzanita, Yucca, Phormium, Callistemon, even hens and chicks or sedums will benefit from crushed rock applied around the crown.   If you have mulch or bark dust blown in, this can have disastrous consequences for drought tolerant plants.  It is critical to keep bark dust or mulch away from the crowns of these root rot sensitive plants.

For more information on landscape design for your garden, contact me to make an appointment.

Growing Greens in Winter

It’s the first week of October and I just planted veggie greens starts in my raised bed. Yup it’s not too late. I bought two kinds of collard greens, Bok Choy Rosette (a dwarf variety) and  2 butter leaf lettuce (Rhapsody Butterhead  and Little Gem).  Adding pounds of fresh greens  into my diet this summer has been great for my energy and my waistline.

Butter lettuce and bok choy in Carol Lindsay's salad table.

Butter lettuce and bok choy in Carol Lindsay’s salad table.

Each week I pick a mixture of greens.  I wash them in a dab of dish soap and cold water. I spin them dry and stuff them into a large pickle jar. I feel better and  breakfast has been quick and yummy. The smoothies are so tasty! Each morning I scoop out 2 fistfuls of greens, add protein powder, frozen fruit and blend.  It’s so fast, tasty and healthy it’s got to be wrong!  My fav combo is basic greens with basil, frozen peaches, 3 strawberries and 1/2 a banana with coconut milk. The basil and banana are sweet enough I don’t miss adding sugar.  Basic greens could include kale, chard, beet greens or collard greens, romaine lettuce and arugula.

Now that it’s fall, I still have lots of chard and kale left from summer.  My kale is 5’ tall and I have underplanted them with bok choy starts and more kale starts.  I’m not harvesting my kale until after the first frosts hit.  I’m told the kale from this summer will sweeten with the cold and taste even better. Here are the kale varieties I’m growing right now:   Italian heirloom Lacinato, (it’s sometimes called Black Kale) Winterbor, Red Ursa.  I still have lots of rainbow chard and I continue to harvest the largest outside leaves so the plants don’t get huge. They are about 1 foot high at maximum.  If you are a beginner, chard is easy and prolific.

It's amazing how much food you can grow in a 4x8 raised bed.

It’s amazing how much food you can grow in a 4×8 raised bed.

In addition to smoothies, greens are so great in soups.  I use a pressure cooker to make soup quickly and I pick easy recipes because I’m really not the cook in my family.

My brother is the hot shot cook in our family and I was always outside in the garden with my dad. My favorite recipe is Ethiopian – Inspired Red Lentil Soup.  I’m going to grow my greens and use them  for as long as I can this winter.  If I bought the greens each week at a grocery store it would easily cost $100.00 in a month so I’m saving money too.

Mulching to protect our Salmon

Recently, I attended a workshop to learn more about what I can do as both a gardener and a landscape designer to help the salmon survive and to make a difference in our environment.

Salmon have to see to navigate their way home to spawn.

Salmon have to see to navigate their way home to spawn.

Restoring our watershed means remembering that all water runs downhill, and compacted bare soils don’t absorb water. Water rushes downhill, collecting debris, dirt and contaminants as it goes, polluting and muddying the water that the salmon use.  If a stream is muddy and a salmon can’t see, it won’t go into the stream, which is where they return to spawn. Personally, I like to see where I’m going, and hadn’t ever thought about how salmon navigate or their preferences. They don’t use radar to find their way home, they have to see.

So how does mulching get in the act of saving salmon? Mulching slows down the water, and improves the soil’s moisture holding capacity and it actually immobilizes and degrades pollutants. This means cleaner, less polluted water goes to streams and rivers, keeping the water clear for the salmon to see. Pretty simple huh!

New plantings at Masterson garden receive blanket of mulch.

New plantings at Masterson garden receive blanket of mulch.

Well, it is.  Mulching bare soil areas with as little as 2 inches of compost has many benefits. It supplies slow release nutrients to plants and to existing natural good fungi.  Compost improves your soil structure, creating passageways for air and water, creating a better environment for plant growth and a healthier low maintenance garden for you.

“If all the bare soils in the Portland Metropolitan area were covered with 2 inches of medium grade compost, there wouldn’t be any problem with runoff into the rivers and stream.” The Salmon can’t be saved with random acts of kindness.